TOBY BOOTHMAN  

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THE TECHNIQUE
THE UNDERDRAWING | THE UNDERPAINTING | THE COLOUR

The underpainting

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I then lay the drawing flat and 'fix' it to the canvas with numerous layers of an aerosol fixative, until I am completely satisfied that none of the drawing will move when paint brushes over it. I then cover the entire canvas with a flat layer of paint, using a thick, soft brush, which must be applied very carefully, avoiding any rubbing, which may smudge the drawing or leave unsightly streaks. This layer is known as the 'imprematura' and is usually rendered in a mix of varnish, turpentine and a warmish pigment - however you can use any colour you wish. A warm colour compliments flesh tones and adds subtle warmth to the image as a whole.

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Once this has dried, I begin to work up the whites. Synthetic tempera is used as a carrier medium and, as one would expect, this must be carefully prepared to an exacting recipe. It is crucial to ensure that the proportions of the various chemicals are exact to achieve a perfectly balanced emulsion. If they are even slightly incorrect the solution will not bind - rendering it useless. I then mix lead white with the emulsion until a desirable consistency is achieved. Lead white is highly toxic, so I always wear gloves when mixing the powder. I use this mixture to accentuate the lightest parts of the painting and this process is know as 'working up the whites' because it is necessary to add layer upon layer of pigment in order to give the painting an in-built light. This light will shine through the colour glazes that follow, and create a staggering illusion of natural dimension and form - an inner light that is virtually impossible to achieve through 'alla prima' painting.

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I begin with the highlights of the painting, adding the first layers and gradually work up through the tones. The emulsion dries fairly quickly, due to the drying agents present, so the highlights can soon have their second layer, whilst a darker area nearby is given its first. This is repeated all over the painting until the highlights will have maybe 30 layers of white to the extreme dark's one. Many different effects can be achieved with the lead white mixture, all sorts of texture can be moulded and shaped - whether you are painting glass, stone, flesh, fur, water etc.

Finally a veil of white is applied to the entire surface of the canvas. This softens the whole image and puts sufficient pigment onto the canvas, preventing the image from becoming what Durer described as 'a tinted drawing'.

After a day or so, when this is completely dry, I move onto the darks. Here I use another specially prepared medium, which acts like an ice rink on the surface of the image, allowing me the freedom to blend and bleed out the paint using a selection of brushes, even dry ones on occasion. Starting always in the background, I use a neutral colour such as raw umber, as I always like to render the negative spaces first and let the image pull itself out from the canvas. When painting, I always try to remember that the image is three-dimensional, never breaking the form with the brush, but going around and behind it. This stage can be seen as replacing the pencil with raw umber paint. The darks appear to exist below the whites as a series of optical greys. In this technique one constantly uses the opportunity to redraw with the brushes and paint - never losing sight of the original underdrawing.

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When I feel happy that the darks have been completed, I begin working with tube white (oil-based lead white in a tube) in exactly the same way as I did with the raw umber, but in reverse. The forms are constantly modelled as the whites are worked up and the shadows pushed back with a neutral dark coloured paint; working from background to foreground repeatedly until the painting appears fully three-dimensional. This is the last opportunity to model the underpainting before I introduce the added complication of colour. Often I use a range from white to raw umber and even to black to really sculpt the form, but always strive not to make the image appear too dark, so that the colour to be applied on top will still be seen.

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  © TOBY BOOTHMAN 2001 DESIGN BY FLUID DREAMS